Out of the oven into the cold

Howdy all...

Sorry it's been a while since I last posted on the blog, but internet access has been hard to come by so I'm writing to you from the Portland, Oregon now with a week long visit to the great state of Washington under my belt.

After leaving the quietly cool town of Pendleton, Oregon (see last blog entry) I made the long journey up to Olympic NP to meet up with friends Steve and Vicki for a few days. They were in the Seattle area and agreed to come hang out. Olympic NP gives you a little bit of everything. It boasts mountains, rain forest, and coastal stretches within the park boundary. If you are looking for one stop recreation, this is the place. The park was a welcome respite from the never ending summer heat of Utah and it was nice to actually need my sleeping bag again!

Steve, Vicki, and myself spent our first full day battling the never ending road construction to get to Hurricane Ridge. Here wildflowers dominate the landscape as do the jagged peaks of the Olympic mountains in the distance. Hiking up to one particular point we were treated to a sighting of a black bear foraging in the valley below. I have to say that was the best way to see a bear...from a great distance...see black spec below :)

Steve and Vicki (bear watchers in the background).

On our way back down to the parking area a local celebrity stopped by for a guest appearance. Yes, the famous Bambi was signing autographs...well actually Bambi was just getting chased by photo hunting tourists. I tried to be cordial and kept my distance, but got a nice head shot of this black tailed deer....

The next day we spent the morning relaxing in the Sol Duc hot springs. The smell of sulfur dominated but the springs were welcoming with their warmth and soothing nature. Sorry no pictures...hahah...Shortly thereafter we did a short waterfall hike and ended up at Lake Crescent enjoying lunch, beers, and the view...Shortly thereafter we had to go our separate ways :(. They were off to Seattle and I was back on the solo train to the coast of Olympic NP. Unfortunately they took the good weather with them....The next 2 days we're dominated by rain, rain, and more rain. My journey to the coast was cloudy, windy and cold but I managed to find a nice campsite. Hope you like it Mom....

The following day I visited the Hoh Rain forest it lived up to its name because it rained pretty much the whole time I was there. On my way there I saw river otters hunting in the Hoh river. The rainforest is just amazinly lush and the tree branches are just drowning in moss. I enjoyed a few small hikes in my rain gear and marveled at the green forest that is the Hoh (insert jokes here)

After I left the Hoh I intended to spend the day on the coast and camp near well known Ruby beach, but it was not meant to be as all the campsites were full and weather very unhospitable. I ended my run in Olympic NP camping at Lake Quinalt. I spent the night drowning in rain and packing my tent soaked in water. At that point, I was ready for a new adventure.

My next destination was Mount Rainier NP. Rainier is the 8th national park I've visited so far on my trip and upon arriving I soon realized why so many visit this beautiful place. The park is about 2 hours from Seattle and during the summer months it comes alive with a sea of wildflowers after of being covered in snow and ice during the winter. Honestly, I've never seen so many wildflowers. My head was on a swivel. I hiked the fantastic Skyline loop trail and after the clouds and fog cleared away I was treated to spectacular views of Mount Rainer (14,000 +). The camera just doesn't do the mountain justice. It's so massive...

The following morning I got back into dawn patrol mode and took in the sunrise at Reflection lakes were Mt Rainier is nicely reflected in the lake. This was an ideal place for sunrise and a fantastic photo location in the summer...

Thanks to many of you I heard about the Wall arch falling recently in Arches NP. Well, I guess I consider myself lucky as I was able to see it intact during my visit. Here is a shot of the arch before its demise...

Well, that sums up the last week or so. The next few days I will be exploring the Columbia River, Hood River, and Mount Hood areas. If you are a waterfall lover this IS the place for you. Hopefully, I will have some shots to show off...

Hope all is well for everyone back home. I will try to update the blog a little more frequently, but when wandering sometimes you get caught up in all the sights and staring at a computer pales in comparison!

The Wanderer

On the Oregon trail...

What's up everbody??

Greetings from rustic and unknown to me until yesterday, Pendleton, Oregon. I arrived here after about an eight hour drive from Salt Lake City. I had my second opportunity in the last couple of years to pass through Idaho and I was rewarded with many informative roadside billboards about abortion and in a first, a bible passage billboard in Boise that scrolls various bible passages as your drive by. Just not used to that kind of thing.

I'm here in Pendleton mainly because it's a convenient stop over on my way up to Washington. When planning the trip I had eliminated Washington as a destination due to time, but I knocked off a couple days in Utah and I've found enough time to make it to Olympic NP and Mt Ranier NP. More on that later...

The trip is still going strong. I'm sure a few of you have wondered if I'd make it this far, if I'd become bored, homesick, lonely, broke, or run my car to the ground. Well, so far none of that has happened yet. I do get a little lonely, but mother nature always raises my spirits and gives me the drive to keep going. I've seen so much beauty, met so many interesting people, and my beard has grown so out of control that I'm determined to keep going!

Since my last post I've spent time in Arches NP, Canyonlands, the oddly named Dead Horse State Park, and Antelope Island State Park near Salt Lake City. All have blown me away with their scenery and I've already decided that I will return to this area in the next couple years. Photographically, outside of Zion, this section of Utah has been the most exciting to me. Sometimes the views have been so good I've forgotten that I was trying to capture it in photo. There is a reason they call the Southwest the "land of color". The pictures just don't do any of it justice.

Arches is more than just arches it's loaded with all sorts of cool geological formations. Some of the rock looks like human figures, tall buildings, castles, etc. The arches do dominate the scene and really beckon you to photograph them. Here is the turret arch through the north window. This is a classic shot at Arches...

Speaking of classic shots, here is a shot of the Delicate arch. This guy is a pretty much the poster child for Arches. It's a 3 mile round trip to get a close view of this sandstone icon. At sunset, hoardes of people line up to get a picture under the arch. If you are a lucky photographer, you will get a brief moment with the arch on its own...

Some people really take advantage of their 15 seconds (not minutes thankfully) under the arch. This girl did her best impression of an arch...

Hopefully, you can see her in this picture. Those of you at MDT with your 19" screens might have a chance. Otherwise, you will have to wait until I can post a larger shot somewhere...

From Arches I visited Canyonlands (Island in the Sky unit) and Dead Horse State Park. Both parks offer stunning views and really make you realize how really small you are. Here's sunrise from Dead Horse Viewpoint. This view was stunning and made the 5:30 wake up call worth it...

I liked this area so much I went back 2 days later for another go...

I don't know who this idiot was but he wouldn't get out of the picture. All I could think to myself was this guy really needed a shave...what a gray beard!

Canyonlands is an amazing place. I really didn't get to explore it as much as I would like. The weather didn't cooperate either and my shooting attempts fell flat at sunrise and sunset. The views are so awe inspiring that I know I will return during spring or fall. This place is a must visit if you are in the Moab area.

One of my guidebooks gave me directions to a site called the False Kiva. It's not found on any of the park trail maps or brochures. The park keeps it secret so the hoardes won't trample it to death, but if you have the right guidebook you will be in on the secret. It is an ancient Pueblo ruin which offers an amazing view. The ruin is an amazingly peaceful place...

Upon leaving the false Kiva I was greeted by a young Big Horn Sheep...

After a succesful stint at Canyonlands and Dead Horse, I bid southern Utah adieu and headed north to Salt Lake City where I spent last night at Antelope Island State Park. Only a 45 minute drive from SLC, this park is pretty cool. It's the largest island in the Great Salt Lake and reachable via a paved causeway. The island is home to tons of birds, antelope (hence the name), coyotes, jack rabbits, and roaming bison. Here is a youngin for you nature lovers...

and my campsite...just for you Mom...in the background is the Great Salt Lake about 15 minutes after sunset.

Well that about does it for this installment. Tomorrow, I head north to Olympic NP in the northwest section of Washinton state where I will be meeting up with my friends Steve and Vicki for a day or two. Hope all is well in NorCal.

The Wanderer

From there to Moab

Hey all

I'm the midst of the less planned out part of my trip and luckily this is serving me well. I guess the economy and gas prices have slowed down tourism because I'm finding it pretty easy to go where I want without reservations. I like being flexible! Because of this I'm wandering a bit more than planned and I've arrived at Moab (Arches area) a little early. I spent the last night at the Needles unit in Canyonlands. I had intended to stay there for 3 days but quickly learned that 3 days was too much. So, here I am! I intend to stay here and visit Arches over the next 3 days then visit the Island in the Sky unit of Canyonlands for another couple days.

So what have I been up to between my last post and now? Well here is a summary in pictures...

After leaving Capitol Reef NP I drove on a stretch of highway where the landscape gave me the feeling that I'd just landed on the moon. This believe it or not was my first taste of Utah political activism...(click on picture)

Here's another view....(click on picture) Yes, that's a spray painted target and bullet holes. What a perfect way to mix guns and peace, don't you think?

Shortly after leaving the political moonscape I arrived at Goblin Valley State Park. The park is known for it's valley of sandstone figures that look eeriely like goblins....

After getting my fill of Goblins I tackled 3 southern Utah attractions. I checked out Natural Bridges Monument, Valley of the Gods drive, and Monument Valley. Phew! Here's my version of the Monument Valley...

Then it was one to Monticello, UT. I had intended to stay here

for the night in a hotel, but the town was uninspiring and the call of southern Canyonlands beckoned so off I went. Before I got out of town I was had

to make a choice as to what route to take. I think you can guess which one I didn't choose....(click on picture)

So now, here i am in Moab and like everywhere else in Southern Utah (except Bryce) it's hot!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm sorta getting used to it, but I guess what else can I do? I'm loving Utah but I'm also looking forward to Oregon adventure. If nothing else it should be a lot cooler.

As usual, I hope all of you are doing well. Until next time...

W

Off to the land of Goblins

Howdy there my small but loyal readership

I've spent the last couple days checking out Capitol Reef National Park. It's probably the least visited of the 5 national parks here in Utah. Compared to the others I've seen and will see I guess this makes sense, but this park a beauty all it's own and is certainly worth a visit.

It's been warm here cracking 90 degrees both days. Due to the heat it's been tough to go on any long hikes so each day I've done small ones and made the most of the other sites within the park that are viewable via car. The main attraction to the park is the scenic drive which contains amazing geological beauty but personally I would say the drive into the park to the visitor center is as good if not better...

The campground well situated between to sets of cliffs and is a nice oasis during the hottest part of the day. It's bordered by fruit tree groves and Mormon homesteads. The local deer love this area and meander along under the trees eating just about all day...

At my Mom's request here is a shot of my campsite complete with a friend deer in the background...

On Thursday night I was blessed to witness one of the wildest sunsets I've ever seen. A summer storm swooped in from the west side of the park as the sun was going down. From the aptly named sunset point a trifecta of Mother Nature's biggest hits combined into a thing of beauty. It was completely magical and awesome. I got to see the sunset's rays directly hitting the storm cloud while a rainbow flanked the cloud to the right. The shot below isn't bad but there is absolutely no way that I could truly capture this with the camera, but as you can guess, I tried...

Well, I'm now off to Goblin State Park to commune with the goblins and hopefully if the weather holds out, visit a slot canyon or two. I hope all is well with everyone.

The wanderer

Before I go back into the wild...

Ahhh, I must admit I'm loving the hotel life. Air conditioning, comfortable bed, clean shower, free breakfast, and a coffee place in walking distance. I feel like a king! Well, it will be short and sweet. Today I go back into camping mode and will stay 2 nights at Capitol Reef NP and after that I will drive north to the scary but cool sounding Goblin State Park.

Anyhow...

Thus far I've been keeping up with my end of the deal. At this point I've taken about 12 gigs of photos. I'm a firm believer of the 1% rule in photography so perhaps 10-20 will be good. :)

Ted and all my friends at MDT I know
you want to see the beard so here it is (Click on the picture for larger version). Sorry for the lifeless expression, but it's not that easy to take a picture of yourself in a mirror. I guess I could have turned the camera toward me but I fear that would have been even more frightening to look at! It's a mix of gray and black, probably fair to say it's about 50/50. Time to get "Just for men, grecian formula or something. At 36, I'm looking too old for my own good. hahha

Discovered a tidbit of good news yesterday. A rather cute photo of my niece Anna made the cover of the latest Cal Parks Foundation newsletter. You can view a thumbnail of the cover here: http://calparks.org/newsletter/
I'm very excited about it and look forward to seeing it when I get back to Petaluma in August.


Vincent (from TrekLens) I don't know if you are reading this at all, but if you still intend to come to Utah in the fall. I highly suggest this book: http://www.amazon.com/Photographing-Southwest-1-Southern-Utah-2nd/dp/0916189120/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1216912950&sr=8-1
This book has been awesome and is really well put together. If you haven't heard about it I cannot begin to tell you how thorough it is....


Well, I gotta get going. It's almost 9:30 here and they are gonna kick me out of my room at 11. Time to go set up camp and explore.

The wanderer

16 straight...

days of camping are over and the Days Inn seems like a 5 star hotel!

Hi all

I write to you from Torrey, Utah, home of Capitol Reef National Park. After 2.5 days in Bryce Canyon National Park, I've arrived here a bit tired and ready to sleep in a bed for a change.

Bryce was a nice change from the relentless heat of Zion. I arrived to much cooler temperatures with rain and a lightning charged thunderstorm keeping company on my first night. Bryce was nice (had to use it) and unlike Zion, they had showers!! WOO HOO. I hadn't felt so clean in days.

The park itself is located at 8000+ feet and offers excellent hiking around the canyon and in the canyon itself among the hoodoos. What's a hoodoo you ask? Well here is a close up...

The canyon is just loaded with hoodoos of various shapes and sizes. Some have names like the shipwreck, the great wall, the hammer of thor. Pretty cool actually. Native legend says that they were once humans that were tricked by a (wiley) coyote and turned to stone.

I spent each sunrise and sunset in and around the canyon. For photography, this is the prime time to view the hoodoos. Like the shot above, the sun just illuminates the hoodoos so nicely. You only have a little time catch this moment. It's a race in which you and umpteen other French, German, and English tourists all gladly compete. I've never heard so many cameras clicking, snapping, and flashing. Here's the canyon just before sunrise...

One of the highlights of the trip was hiking the Fairyland loop. It's one of the less frequented trails within the canyon and comes in at 8 miles round trip. A more popular hike is called the Navajo trail. Just about everyone coming back up from this down then up loop were huffing and puffing. The switchbacks can look quite intimidating...

I enjoyed the hike alot. You really get a chance to see the hoodoos up close. They are much bigger up close than they look from the rim of the canyon. From the rim you get a full panoramic view of the canyon. You can hike to several viewpoints and get different angles of view. It's fascinating how humans can be so drawn to eroding sandstone pillars but I have to admit I was right there with everyone else, drawn to these colorful hoodoos that were before my eyes after millions of years in the making. Sometimes mother nature just pushes things over the top and mixes some of her magic together just to tease the viewer...

Suffice to say, I felt lucky to witness this moment. It only stuck around for a little while and it was gone. Bryce was time well spent. I hope you liked some of the photos.

Before arriving at Bryce I did manage to get some more good shots from Zion. This park is unbelievable and there is a reason why 2.7 million visitors flock to this park each year. The sunsets are always a show (unless clouds break up the party). The cliffs just look so amazing when they are drenched in the low light of the sun...

The east side of Zion is fantastic, a total feast for the eyes. If you take east bound road out of Zion you must first take switchbacks that pass Pine creek and Mt Spry....

Once you pass through the tunnel the landscape transforms into a wonderland of geological masterpieces. As one of my photo guidebooks mentioned it looks like a pastry chef went crazy. I was skeptical when I first read this but when I saw these formations with my own eyes I realized the author was dead on....

One of the more famous landmarks is checkerboard mesa. It's a must stop for most tourists, myself included. It's famous not only for its unusual shape but also it's one of the best views of "cross bedding". Don't ask me what that means...

Phew...this is a long posting. I've got some more information to share, but I will put that in another blog entry that I will post a bit later, probably tomorrow morning.

Hope all of you are well.

the wanderer

Fryin in Zion

Hi all

Good to have a chance to type to you all again.

I'm currently taking refuge from the oppressive heat that is Zion. Through 3.5 full days it's been mostly hot with the occasional thunderstorm or two. Everyday it's been 95 or higher I would guess. Not so bad at first but after a couple days it takes a toll on you. I've confirmed what I already know, I'm not built for this kind of temperature. Today after a 4 mile hike up the trail that leads you to Angel's rest, I hit a wall. I guess almost 2 weeks straight of camping, waking up early, and running around like a mad man eventually takes its toll on the body. After the hike I've just felt exhausted. I'm looking forward to going to north to Bryce where the temps will drop in the higher elevations.

That being said Zion is an amazing place. People from all over the world have come here and even with the heat the park is packed with us tourists. The cliffs are amazing as are the various colors of sandstone and the hikes are great. I would do more hiking if I wasn't afraid of heights. Seems like all the best hikes here put you in places where you can't be afraid of 1000 foot drops! Oh well, there still are the narrows.

The narrows is a hike where the Virgin river is your trail and you hike right through the canyon as it becomes tighter and tighter.

You are supposed to equip yourself with the proper gear to hike in the river like boots and a walking stick, but like any naive tourist I just took the plunge and walked a good mile or so with shorts, sandals, and my camera pack. Luckily I didn't twist and ankle or fall into the water! Surprisingly, I didn't.

Getting good photos here at Zion has been challenging as the canyon is so deep and the sun casts many a shadow. Here is one more for ya..This is the Towers of Virgin at sunrise. Myself and 3 other photographers tried in vain to get a good shot of this scene.

I leave for Bryce tomorrow so I hope to get some final shots of Zion from the east side of the park tomorrow morning. Hopefully, I will have more to share later.

Before I go I want to share a few shots from Great Basin in Nevada...

My campsite....

and some primroses....

See ya in Bryce...

the wanderer